What would YOU change about Georgia?

During the two short weeks of my stay in Georgia, Nata and I have asked this seemingly random question to people from all walks of life and age to gauge the discontent in the wonderful country of Saqartvelo. Except form the points Energy and City Planning (added by me) everything was solely based on Georgian citizens’ opinion and experience. I have collected them here in a short overview to give people a chance to see that they are not alone in their opinions. Change in a democracy can happen if people realise that they are not alone and that their representatives should fight for a brighter future for all.
Please note that I haven’t been able to touch upon subjects such as health, nationalism, economy, or political election campaigns. The list is not complete, and more people (maybe experts) would need be asked what they would want to change.

Education

Schools and educational institutions are in a dire strait. Their quality is horrible, children and adults are not educated well, they are poorly informed about their voice and power. This does not even touch upon trivial lessons like mathematics, science, or languages and the like. We refer purely to the political education. For a healthy democracy to establish itself and grow in power and reach, every citizen needs to be informed about what they can do, what their role is in a democracy and what the servants of the state (i.e. politicians) are supposed to do for the improvement of the country. Also, the education should aim at teaching people how to discuss instead of fighting each other.
Furthermore, teachers have very little respect for their pupils and themselves, for they do not know what their purpose is. If they truly wanted to push their pupils’ interests and knowledge, they would be impartial as to where pupils get their knowledge from – their role is not to be the only teachers, but to help guide the flow of knowledge and fact-check their pupils.
Pupils need more time in between classes to rest, eat and spend their energy instead of rushing from one classroom to another and being punished for not being able to go to the toilet and eat in a 5-minute break. Teachers don’t trust their pupils, believing they will “run off” or go home if allowed to play in the yard during breaks. This should be a huge warning sign to everyone working in the education sector.
Sexual and drug education are not being taught in schools in Georgia. Although these represent an important part of young people’s concerns and interests, education on harmful drugs (and use) as well as procreation and the dangers of unprotected sex are virtually being silenced by the state. Without proper education, the young society is at risk of become depended on drugs and may be exposed to an unnecessarily high risk of STDs and unwanted pregnancy (and, of course, unfulfilling marriage).
While the education is not used to address these problems, overwhelming propaganda campaigns are launched to discredit democratic institutions and create a split between social groups.

Political Institutions

Certain political institutions need to put in place to reduce the risk of abuse of power. They mustn’t be influenceable by political figures. Their role is to observe that all political procedures are respected, and, if there is an abuse, immediate reactions must follow, no matter the political orientation of the observer or he who has done the abuse. It is absolutely necessary to introduce them to the political field.
TV is not an institution and should never be used by one party only to promote their ideas and spread their propaganda, which is sometimes portrayed in a perverse utopian and disillusion way that touches upon the most basic of all human drives. Not only can a TV help awkward couples unwind and get down to action. It can also enlighten people of all creeds and nations to possible solution and inspiring skills and talents.

Power

Anyone who enters the field of politics in Georgia is going to change his or her comportment. They will no longer use public transportation and factually isolate themselves from the common people. The chief reason why people would choose the path of politics is not an altruistic wish to make Georgia a better place for everyone to live in, but purely a reason to establish themselves as powerful and wealthy people. Being in power comes with certain perks, such as modern car and driver, housing in healthy neighbourhoods, relations with business and economically strong players. To reduce the abuse of power, the attractiveness of a political position needs to be curbed.

Culture

Albeit having a Black Sea Arena might at first sight seem like a nifty thing to have, upon closer inspection it will become all too clear that this is simply a trick to cover the lack of political and financial support for culture. The tickets are often very expensive and out of reach for most Georgians, the Arena is barely used at all (5 concerts in 2023). While this Arena is used as a political propaganda flagship by the leading Georgian political party, Qartuli Otsneba, the voice of the opposition is being repressed and discontent continuously ridiculed. Small Georgian musicians and artists are not able to establish themselves nationally and internationally for lack of support, while millions are spent on bands that were famous 10 years ago. A shift in financial aids is imperative for a healthy cultural sphere and an artistic expression of people’s voices.

Employment

At the time of writing, working in Georgia can be both extremely challenging and disappointing for there are very few regulations to prevent abuse and exploitation of the working force by their respective employer. While this could be seen as beneficial for small businesses that would struggle from high spendings on human resources, uneducated and inexperienced workers will never develop an adequate spending power and will forever dwell in poverty. Introducing policies that would require every employer to fix contracts for their employees and guarantee them a minimum salary would be a first step towards a fair marketplace, a new burgeoning social class and a great economic boost.

Military

The Georgian military is reserved primarily for the less-fortunate, not educated and for those most prone to fall for nationalistic propaganda campaigns. Because of the poor mental state of the cadets, orders are not understood well. If the military was aiming at creating a strong defensive force it would have to train educated, able-bodied and able-minded people to be resourceful and efficient. It would, furthermore, need to equip their soldiers with modern weaponry instead of using used, rusty, and worn-out Soviet equipment. Finally, overall fitness of Georgians is questionable, and many would probably not be able to even the lowest requirements for the military service (should they be drafted). Having a healthy population is paramount to creating effective defensive capabilities. It would also serve as a deterrent against potential further Russian expansions.

Nature preservation

The preservation of the extraordinarily beautiful, diverse, and rich nature of Georgia is strictly limited to a few national parks such as Vashlovani or Borjomi. However, the greatest part of the Georgian society is only dimly aware of their environment if at all. In fact, the country is suffering under the weight of trash thrown into ditches next to roads, in rivers, in forests and everywhere imaginable. Though garbage collectors are working regularly and under pitiable conditions, only a fraction of trash is collected. Plastic bags roam the streets, cigarette stumps are ubiquitous. Grazing animals and stray dogs are eating them, and the trash returns to humans in another form. Recycling is but a word. No efforts have been taken to reduce garbage use or recycling. If the government does not address the problems as such, the country is going to be covered in trash, which will have serious effects on tourism and on Georgian citizens’ health. Campaigns that target people’s awareness of their own impact may come in handy.
Industry pollution is another issue. Emissions are being emitted without filters and enter the ecosphere from the air and the water. These are often toxic and have seriously detrimental effects on humans, plants, and animals alike. Standards need to be introduced to save lives.

Mobility & Transportation

Georgia has to transition away from a car-driven economy and transportation to more eco-friendly and efficient means. Living and traveling/commuting in Georgia means being exposed to constant dangers of life. While millions of cars drive at unreasonable speeds on tricky roads without any attention to street rules, pedestrians most often walk on the streets, thus exposing them to drunk drivers, mud, smog and other unpleasantries. Beside the two or three mediocre trains operating in Georgia, almost all transportation in car based. Constant traffic jams, high carbon emissions and a strong dependency on energy imports from Russia and Azerbaijan are the consequence – a consequence Georgian politicians don’t want to address. Stress and a higher mortality are also linked to the Georgian dream that is a stinky and polluting mobility. For the streets of Georgia to calm down and allow for a smoother mobility, steps must be taken. These include blocking roads to cars, allocating a strict parking policy that has every wrong-doer’s car removed, construction of park houses, allowing for safe spaces for pedestrians and cyclists, connecting public transportation hubs. A safe and clean mobility also requires high investments into trains and railways in general, including the metro in Tbilisi and possibly the creation of a tram along the river Mtqvari. The rights of pedestrians must be protected by the police. Ruthless behaviour by car drivers has to be stamped out, awareness about pedestrians have to be raised during driving lessons. Last but not least streets in Georgia need to be renovated and all potholes closed. This primarily concerns people from poorer towns and cities who also do not have the means to have a solid car insurance nor the means to repair their cars.
Precarious roads like the Rikoti Pass are suffering from closures more and more often. The Road and Street Department of the State (should it exist) must solidify the road and keep it clear of huge snow fall, erosion and other naturally occurring hazards.

City planning

Everyone who has ever stepped foot into Didi Dighomi will know what a faulty and inconsistent city planning looks like: chaotic, dirty, uncomfortable, and perilous. Drivers have to be very careful to even get there, as hour-long congestions and missing exists from the main road artery are a permanent concern. Once there, high buildings for a growing population are being built without any respect to the local geography, the population density, mental health, and circulation. As there are no metro stations and few bus lanes, most workers are forced to commute by car, hence taking up more space than they would need to. An acute lack of parking lots causes people to park anywhere they seem fit – no authority seems to pay attention to this. There are barely any, if any at all, pedestrian lanes (trottoirs), which makes moving through the newly built quarter capricious and deadly.
The absolute lack of pedestrian lanes in general in Georgia is a statement of disrespect towards the less wealthy, to those who like to stroll, and the youth, who are not allowed to drive. This is a huge issue all over Georgia and is not limited to the capital.
Seemingly no thought has gone into city construction or urban development in general. Buildings are built anywhere with little regard for the inhabitants. Houses are often not attached to existing sewage lines; they have no access to gas and electricity. Cities grow continuously and in an unrestrained manner. To curb tumorous towns, a virtual grid must be established which defines where and how can be built in certain locations. For this reason, town halls need to employ more people and digitalisation must step forward.
Cities should also employ water evacuation systems that allow for the surplus of rainwater and a safe passage of water into the rivers. Water purification plants also need to be built along the rivers of Georgia to preserve the hydro eco system and provide with fresh fish for locals.

Agriculture

Farmers are unable to sell their produce in Georgia, as competing producers from abroad produce cheaper than Georgian farmers (meat is being imported from Brazil, many vegetables come from Türkiye). Not only does this result in a massive rural evasion and an unhealthy inflow of uneducated country folk into urban areas (hence destabilising both cities and villages), but it also means that the general quality of produce drops immensely. Controls on the safety of imported produce may be lower than controls on locally grown produce made with Georgian standards.
Farmers should be incentivised to stay in their hometowns, earn more for their hard work and have safe spaces in the city where they can offer their produce to people. The difference in taste and colour tells a tale of difference in quality and Georgian citizen should listen to the story. After all, Georgians have suckled on beans grown in Georgia during the hardest time of their existence. What if this resource is suddenly not available anymore?

Energy

Energy-wise the country of Georgia depends chiefly on imports of natural gas, petroleum, and other fossil fuels from its autocratic neighbours. As we have seen the budget of the military powers of Azerbaijan and Russia rely on exports of fossil fuels. In order to reduce the risks of further escalations and loss of territory of Georgia, spendings on fossil fuels must drop significantly. Investments into clean energy is essential for a peaceful future. Becoming energy independent would signify a decrease in military projection of Georgia’s neighbours and an increase of the Georgian national budget, which is turn can be spend on their own defence capabilities.
80% of its electricity needs are covered thanks to their richness in water and the possibility to erect dams. However, due to climate change and uncontrolled grazing of cattle, as well as an inefficient heating of towns with wood, improper ways will sooner or later translate into the premature melting of glaciers and a drop in water availability. The switch to clean energies such as solar or wind power – both of which are widely available in Georgia – could result in many positive outcomes: energy sufficiency, cleaner power, reduced dependency on energy imports, democratisation through community-led solar power plants, boost of the local economy, and many more.

Orientation

East? West? Or rather North? Why not try South?
Georgian politics focus on providing its citizen with unrealistic, perverse, and utopic ideas of what the future of Georgia looks like, without offering actual relief for the poor and those in need. It also doesn’t boost business-minded people, as your success largely relies on contacts within the government or your political orientation.
Georgia has had their golden ages, and it seems like these days lay in the past and cannot be rekindled. Which is deceptive, as the past offers important figures like Queen Tamar or Davit the Builder who have pushed the kingdoms through innovation, calculated thinking, gender-equality, and breakdowns of corruption and nepotism.
Georgia does not need to look East or West and try to wedge itself somewhere between two equally disastrous powers, but rather find its own way, that suits its intentions and culture. Therefore, it is most important for Georgian citizen to remember what they strive for: A strong culture, a beautiful nature and hospitable people living in their homelands where they can preserve their way of living and being. I believe that by implementing the above-mentioned points and some more that I haven’t been able to research in the last 2 weeks, Georgia may soon find itself in a position of power, where its people can breathe clean air, stay the beautiful people that they have always been and decide in unity what the next course of action should be. Georgia can be a beacon of hope and democracy in a rapidly evolving world. The earlier people realise their potential, the sooner they can leave behind the weighty past and look forward again.

And don’t forget: Violence is not an opinion, nor is it a sign of democracy and understanding of different point of views. Violence used by the state is inherently wrong and is but a projection of politicians’ inability to tackle a problem in a civilised way.

A memorandum to Georgia

Please not that the following lines are highly personal and that they may or may not represent the whole truth. However, they do represent a truth, my truth. A truth that had partially been written during the onset of a bacterial illness and in the cold and dark month of February.

First of all, I believe a short introduction would be necessary. Some wider context is needed for you, the reader, to understand where I am and what is going on. After my frustrating months in Central Asia, may they be as instructive as they have been, I decided to head back to Georgia to visit my friends, following an emotional sickness, eat food without meat and possibly find a job here. I had taken matters into my own hand, had freed myself of most of my worldly possessions and had set my mind on trying something new for myself. It turned out to be more difficult than anticipated.

But let’s not dive too deep into these organizational matters, for they are quite boring and serve no greater purpose. It suffices to say that I moved to Kutaisi, following my intuition and the advice of a foreign friend who has settled here and seemingly adores the city. Right from the start I got in touch with a young local couple owning a teaching-center, start-up palace and who asked me straight-away if I wanted to give English lessons. I agreed. Two or three month passed without any greater evolution of my working and overall situation. I have a flat by myself, yet no one to share it with. I had the outlook for acquiring a teaching position with no fixed program, allowing me to freely teach as I see fit. I have some financial reserves and no immediate pressure to actively seek employment. I did watch a few extraordinary films, all-time classics and some that are advisable for all to watch. I read a few books.

Almost every book is based on violence. Luckily the English teaching one is peaceful.

View from my former flat.

The months passed. I witnessed the Georgian parliamentary elections. I saw the former president Mikhail Saakashvili return from his Ukrainian exile (just in time, I’d say). Misha returned and so did the snow in Rustavi. I experienced public transportation in Georgia. I followed Georgian news on the war in Ukraine. I observed the everyday Georgian life, the routine. I mused about the fascinatingly slowness at which everything and everybody moved, not taking into consideration the drunk drivers all over this country, who cannot wait to die in a tragic accident. And all the suicidal Glovo bikes who face the traffic jams of Tbilisi with a stern fanaticism, proudly carrying the banner of exploition into their glorious death. Banzai!

I remember Georgia from seven years ago, when I fresh came from high school into this promising Caucasian state that was still forgotten by most of the world. The overall infrastructure and life standards seemed to be increasing slowly but steadily. People were friendly, hospitable, exceedingly interested in meeting and talking to European strangers.

Of course, I am aware that my situation was an altogether different one. I may have had this veil of naivety, which shielded of a great number of uncomfortable truths, Well, it has been lifted. I see things clearly now. And I am bitterly disappointed.

I will satisfy myself with only one concrete example: politics. You think that politics are boring? Especially this dull process of going to the voting booth and give your voice to somebody? Fear not, in Georgia it pays off! Upon voting for the right party, the Qartuli Otsneba, in short Qotsi (note that this is awfully close to the German words “kotzen”, which means to throw up) you will receive 20 Lari and/or a sack of delicious potatoes. Yes, you may suffer from four years of hardship and an ever increasing slithering towards a pro-Russian dictatorship, but behold! you will eat well for one week.
These are the voters, who happily give their voice and receive something in return. Others, especially state workers, were forced to vote for the ruling party (in power since 2012) under the threat of losing their jobs.
Of course, in the end all of this pressure is hardly worth the effort, as the elections were rigged anyway and a majority of the people did vote for Qotsi, despite the obvious fact, that the leading politicians work on their own, personal agenda. It’s disappointing, that any reasonable being would vote for a political party that is so openly corruptible.

I realise that I sound harsh and unfair. However, it becomes clear to me that Georgia is moving away from being truly European. Not the individual people, certainly not my close friends here, who I adore more than anybody else, but the whole dirty edifice as a whole. The war in Ukraine (yes, it’s called a war, Putin, you sad, empty cunt!) is the famous drop that was one too many. It’s a disgusting display of sheer power whoring, of reckless lying and manipulating, coupled with a creeping hollowing of the free and concerned public opinion.
The valiant, empathetic Georgian people rose up and demanded their government for immediate support for the harassed, bleeding Ukrainian defenders. The political leadership answered unanimously – with silence. Well, okay, with a small outcry, condemning Russia’s move. But did any actions follow?
( a bit of a badly structured paragraph, I might rephrase it a later stage )

Slava Ukrainiy!

When I was on my 20-hours bus ride through Turkey, I had a lot of time to reflect on what lays ahead. When I first lived here I was in love and its magic made me oblivious to certain aspects of the unpleasant reality; where there was wonder, love and excitement, now sadness reigns. I have become anxious, fearing that I might be ran over by a drunk Georgian driver at any time. Or mistaken as a Russian and injured for this reason. I feel disillusioned. I had hugged Georgia and its mode-de-vie, but the embrace has been loosened and instead of the warm and affectionate feeling an awkward silence imposed itself. There’s a dwelling anger in my chest.
Therefore, it appears evident that my time here in this country comes to a close. I resolve to leave ere summer, with no mind to buying a return ticket.

Before closing this chapter I must, however, bring a small memory back to my mind. It was on my excursion to Tkibuli (ტყიბული) that I met some excellent Georgians in a restaurant. I join their drinking and feasting party. Despite the war in Russia and their ever-increasing hatred towards the Russian language, they conversed with me, therefore overcoming their unease, anger and sadness for the sake of communication: an altogether smart and wise approach. We enjoyed our reciprocal company. Upon hearing that I was going to leave Georgia one man asked me not to forget them.

That was all he demanded. To remember that scene. The true identity of one part of Georgia. A welcoming, warm, hospitable and out-goinf one. One that overcomes problems, personal and the ones that are a produce of society and the environment. And I am happy for this memory and for many, many more.

But I have made up my mind about leaving.

Off, I will go, into the west.

Georgia on my mind ✌

A first step towards freedom (including turtles)

A short moment of inattentiveness. You suddenly realise you’ve been talking to the girl who’s been sitting on your right for the last hour, but didn’t hear what she just said. You quickly turn your head around. She’s not the only one in this bright, comfortable dining room. Apart from the huge amounts of food and different wines that cover the large table, there are quite many people who joined you this evening. Some of the people you’ve already met on previous occasions, some of them complete strangers to you. Laughter and conversations penetrate your ears, you can make out stories about travels, experiences and simple declarations of friendship. The influence of the wine can already be heard. Then you feel the cold of the glass in your right hand, as you notice that the time has come for a next toast. Thankfully you grasp the full wineglass a bit tighter and apologetically explain the smiling dear on your right that you wish to listen to the toast that is about to be made by your neighbour across the table.
Some new food is being brought to the table by the lady of the house. Luckily, it’s not Khinkali, so fewer people will be distracted. The Tamada – your neighbour – is slowly standing up. You take a closer look at his face: Wise and dark eyes are gazing at you. Eyes that have experienced a lot, met many people and know the taste of a good story. Black hair, a certain tan on the face and a small beard are the main features of the face. A slightly edgy face, but not enough to consider it Russian. You cannot help but noticing that, all in all, it’s a pleasant Georgian face. A smile from his part, as he notices your polite attention. A waiting silence falls over the congregation; glasses are held in the right hand. And with the right attention, the Tamada begins his speech:’Let us drink tonight for our freedom. Under the rule of the Soviet Union, for almost 70 years, Georgia was deprived of its liberty and was restricted to the Union’s demands. Long enough had the quality of the wine suffered under their needs, for they only cared about quantity of wine produced. Human lifes were of little concern. However, after long fights, Georgia has freed itself again. Throughout the whole time of oppression, the idea of freedom had stayed in the minds of people. It’s not for nothing that the Georgian language had stayed an official language and it’s also not for nothing that people tried to flee this system throughout the entire time of occupation… some had succeeded, others paid a huge price.
So, this toast goes to an idea! An idea of freedom, that is shared by everyone! An idea that cannot be muted by an oppressive system, because it will always keep on living in our minds. It’s a feeling shared by an entire nation. Gaumarjos!’
The speech is followed by a short moment, where everyone goes back to memories of that time or events similarly important to them, before glasses are clinked together. In this minute of silence, a train of thoughts happens within your deepest conscience. The idea of liberty flashes before your eyes, a switch is triggered and you see clearly what freedom signifies for you:
‘It was in the early days of spring, after a celebration of our youth, the long-awaited 90s party. I clearly remember the next morning as I woke up and saw this array of bright sunlight penetrating the window to my room, filling the interior with its delightful warmth. Disregarding the lack of sleep and the dangers that might lie on the way, the decision to cycle to Udabno fell in an instant. After a quick breakfast, I left home and ventured out far… and I found something long forgotten. A sensation of exceptional freedom, Fernweh, a yen to see distant places that seems to have been suppressed for some time. But also the knowledge that my stay in Georgia for 7 months with all of its beverages hasn’t had harmed my health. If the possibility was given, I was gazing at the blossoming trees that were effected by the solar energy just as much as I was. Different shades of purple and white were coloring the landscape in a more than picturesque way.
With the thought of being exceptional independent, I entered the small village of Udabno and headed straight for the Oasis Club where I was warmly welcomed by a young Frenchman – Florent –  and a refreshing beer. He then prepared some lunch and explained what he was doing in Georgia. As it turned out, he made his hobby his job. By buying skis in the Alps – the part of France where he is from – and selling them to countries that are yet to develop their own skiing industry, (like countries from the Balkan and Georgia) he makes a living. In between of his trips, Florent sometimes helps out in Udabno Club and enjoys the perfect silence, the distance from stressful civilisation and the clear night sky with all of its millions of bright stars. A scrutinizing look over the place and the surrounding steppe was enough to capture my attention entirely. But more to this for another time…
After having shared some moving conversations, I returned home to Rustavi. With all of the positive energy and thoughts stuck to my head and an idea of returning to the desert to find some peace, I reached some concrete channel designed to prevent from flooding on my way back. In the middle of some smoothly rolling hills, a small paradise revealed itself before my eyes: A small elevation prevented some water from flowing away into the desert and due to this unforeseen circumstance, the water – which is constantly being kissed by the sun – developed a lovely ecosystem. Water, rich in nutriments, allowed the formation of reed and a marvelous fauna including frogs and turtles (!) in the middle of a sub desert. I stopped for some time, listening to the solitary ecosystem. Not only did I find some liberty on my way, but I also found the explanation to the mysterious presence of turtles in the desert.
In the end, it was a vague idea in the back on my mind that made me venture out there, seeking for something even more vague. And even though freedom and independence are terms that might differ from situation to situation, they all start from a common point: a restlessness and a certain amount of sorrow; throughout a era of oppression, the idea stays in people’s heads and can hardly be defeated. And once it reaches a critical mass, it might just burst open and cause changes, often radically. Personal freedom behaves quite the same way. Both are found in every individual and both are constantly seeking for a trigger; something genetically that wants us to venture out and discharge our chains.
Freedom is nothing limited by borders or different ethnicities. It is an idea that is stuck in everyone. And similar to a caterpillar, it needs time in its cocoon until its time has finally come to break free. Even though part of everybody’s personality, freedom isn’t something that you simply have or don’t have. Just like a solid cocoon, sometimes there is external energy required, as in the sweet sunlight in early spring. The hull is broken, the wings are developed and the ready-formed liberty is released.’

 

DCIM100GOPRO

Your glass is once more lifted. Accidentally, you must have spoken your thoughts aloud. The same attention that you had given the Tamada was granted to you. Without any further hesitation, you utter a ‘Gaumarjos’ and drink up. The warmth of the wine adds up to the warm gut feeling that you got from saying a toast. Your attention is being drawn back to the friendly girl who sits next to you. Perhaps, now, a nice conversation might result from your toast.

 

( http://seppziehtleine.blogspot.com/2016/02/i-become-open-minded-traveller.html
A befriended blogger, who is both an inspiration and another philosopher. His blogs are of a great quality)

The Grey Duckling in all of its colours

Isn’t it odd? More than 5 months in Georgia now, lots of travels, numerous new acquaintances, a great number of unforgettable experiences already and even more drinks and food are in my memory now. Some of them have already been authored into a blog entry. Others are still waiting for their turn. I might not have stayed with the initial idea of making a Supra out of it, with each entry being a toast with an actual meaning. Well, I did share some experiences, some feelings and the like. However, it’s far from as detailed as it could be. You dear readers might expect something greater and it should be my duty to fulfill of your wishes, since you are the guest here. And just like a real Supra, it needs to be a task of greater importance to have you happy in any way. No guest should leave without having allayed his hunger for knowledge… or at least a rather decent distraction from his everyday life (not judging, only guessing).

Fact is, I haven’t truly described my own everyday life. My own dull work life. The places that I keep visiting. The lifestyle that I’ve developed so far. And not to forget the reasons for my coming to Georgia. Probably a thing I should written about in early posts, would have avoided the same repetitive questions (that tend to be answered in a monotone, repetitive set phrase).
Well, here it is once more:
A little more than one year ago I found myself in a situation of confusion. My childish high school years were coming to an end and I was completely clueless concerning my future. Of course, I was looking for universities such as Utrecht, but I was turned down. And then I got this one monthly Email from Luxembourgian Scouts who were seeking for volunteers for a project in Georgia. Without further thinking or expressing my thoughts to my parents, I called Claude for some information (Claude is a Scout from my sending organisation, pretty high up in the hierarchy). The reason for my spontaneous enthusiasm was due to the collected impressions of scouts who had a project in Georgia in 2013,  the so-called Odyssee Project. Not to forget is also an article about the German political Party Die Partei‘s travel to the small Caucasian country. A lovely article about local drinking habits.

Meria, the main square; inhabited by dear Johnny, the friendly dog

Yet, the question arises my friends: Why, of all the wonderful places in Georgia, of all those magnificent seasides, breathtaking views on snowy mountains and extremely various climate zones would I possible choose Rustavi – a city described to me as one of the most ugly cities that Claude has ever seen? A question I’ve been asked and asking myself over and over again… It’s simply the details that make it so pretty. There lies a beauty hidden between all of the shades of grey; not reference intended. ‘28 Grautöne, da werden Sie bestimmt zufrieden sein: Mausgrau, staubgrau, aschgrau, steingrau, bleigrau, zementgrau…‘ (‘28 shades of grey, you will certainly be pleased: mousegrey, dustgrey, ashgrey, stonegrey, leadgrey, cementgrey,…’) Reference intended… Loriot’s Ödipussi. If I leave in the morning for work, the first thing to meet the eye is a backyard. Not that it is particularly nice. All building are coloured in a solid Soviet grey, like most of the rest of the city. However, between all of the grey, one can distinguish a friendly sight: Tall conifers on the right side, clothes in all colours and sizes hanging over your head on ropes and from time to time a small congregation of neighbours enjoying their breakfast (accompanied by Chacha, which they offer you on a Sunday morning, but which is kindly turned down). In vicinity of the volunteer’s apartment is a small bakery. The receptive baker welcomed me by showing me his small workplace and the traditional oven for traditional Georgian bread. Most of the time I buy my bread there, for he’s a friendly fellow. Then I follow the road that leads to the Bazaar, a place where hardly anybody speaks any English, so you always have the impression that it is crucial to learn Georgian. The street itself is surrounded by conifers, stray dogs are constantly around and so are wild cats (but they inhabit trash bins, so the relationship between dogs and cats is rather peaceful). And then there’s a lot of cocks and chicks running around. Although focusing too much on latter might put one in a situation of pain as one stumbles over a heavily damaged pavement. Any precipitation causes a flooding for days and using pavement becomes a challenge. Elementary school children greet me in the street with their beginners English, for it is apparent that I’m a foreigner here. I’ve been called blonde by most people, although I wouldn’t completely agree with that statement. And then there are more detail that make the city alive: Gloomy sellers in every shop, whose facial expression mostly varies from unhappy to bored but never fail to help you. And the majority of shops have too many employees, so they are equally distributed to 5 sections of the shop that could easily be served by 2 or 3 people. And each one of those will try to wrap the ONE article you need from that section in a NEW plastic bag. One shouldn’t be surprised to see bags all over the city and up in the trees, rolling down the roads as if imitating bushes from Westerns.
Certainly, there are hideous places here as well. Everything that belongs to the metallurgical factory is engulfed in a horrid nostalgic Soviet atmosphere and smell of steel industry. Dark clouds escape the flues all the time, slowly creeping over the city (though the wind mostly blows it into a different direction). The edifice itself – lot of grey – cannot be considered acceptable to European norms. The farther one moves away from it, the cleaner the air gets. And finally, the community has finally created some – presumably – safe zebra crossings on the streets. Rustavi is slowly progressing, though not necessarily noticeable.
Not to forget are also those times of water shortcuts. Without warning, the tap water disappears and stays gone for a couple of hours or even days (2 days, with 3 hours of water in the late evening was the maximum so far). Electricity shortcut are very seldom, however. Nights are always a little romantic… most of the times there’s a stary night. A chilling feeling accompanies you when with friends on a playing ground in the night, enjoying a bottle of cool beer, gazing at the firmament. The stars seem to shine brighter in Georgia.
This brings me the next point: My everyday life. There’s that one picture that I keep showing to people who ask me that question.

This is, of course, only partly true. My predilection for any kind of booze has strongly decreased. After four or five months I finally got the chance of quickly improving my Georgian and so I spend my days inside with my notebook, constantly learning vocabulary. It’s certainly helping, though not as quickly as I had hoped. Those previous four months were mostly spent with friends, neighbours, flatmates and couchsurfers. Walking about this town, Georgia or Armenia. And enjoying homemade wines and chacha. I cannot deny having dedicated a notable amount of my salary on drinks. But it has never brought me into a situation of apathy! No matter the volume of alcohol destroyed, the next day was always a time for travels. In fact, I drink so much that I’m done drinking now. The times of pleasure in alcohol are doomed as so will be my drinking. Cheers on that! Nonetheless, no money spent for Nata should be considered wasted, nor time.
I’m taking special care of what is most important in this apartment, right after my dear flatmates: My plants. First, there’s Crassula Ovata, the Jade plant which I saved from a near-death experience in our old apartment and the cactus, which was a present from Nata. Every time I miss her I should hug that spiky thing… the temptation was great. (Léon: [referring to his plant] ‘It’s my best friend. Always happy. No questions.‘)
And there are a couple of episodes about me trying to adapt to local food:

Making Lobio with the best Mentor

Khinkali with Makho

Great biscuits

Not to forget a couple of smaller reunions and parties:

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Parties like 60s party, hip-hop party, WTF reunion, new home warming-up… (The chemical formula in the background is LSD).
Then there also time spent for traveling, but there are and will be many more blog posts about this. No need for that right here. There will be some soon, about my 3 trips to Borjomi. Stay tuned!
At last, what can be said about my everyday worklife… as I had mentioned it before, I work in the local Scout’s Center. Initially, my task should have consisted in teaching English to children in a rather informal way. Teaching by games, activities, not having a frontal lesson with grammar being thrown at them. For some reason, that took a horribly long time to get even started, and now it changed to Outdoor Activities and Sport. And a little bit of Conversation Club. Unfortunately, the only thing that can be added to this, is that I started working on a new project idea with a befriended German volunteer from Yerevan. It’s all about cultural discovery and understanding, mostly for Georgians and Armenians (fun fact about Georgians: they have not many places where they can travel to without visa, except from Turkey and Armenia but still refuse to go there most of the time. There are also quite many stereotypes about Armenians, often related to the size of their nose).

By the way, we’re putting a band together called Vaffanculo. Already world famous, albums will soon flood the markets and fans in many parts of Caucasus. All we’re missing are instruments, songs and the rest of the equipment…
There’s a lot of stories that are yet to be authored. Don’t miss the next episode of Nomethdragon!

 

 

Concerning Georgian beverages

‘Long live the freedom! Long live the wine!‘ A genuinely important quote from Goethe’s Faust. Although not enough importance is being paid to this sentence, because wine and alcohol are a crucial factor when it comes to culture creating. Especially Georgia is no exception. During social gatherings, you raise your glass many times for this marvelous country and – in international company – to any kind of nation or friendship between all countries. The only thing that remains the same is the quantity of alcohol consumed, be it wine, beer, vodka or chacha.

Before talking about tradition, it’s wise to get some knowledge about the origins of wine production: Georgian people are proudly claiming to be the very first to having produced the first wine (there is an actual fight going on between Armenians and Georgians). Age datings, however, prove that the first amphora containing wine particles originate from Georgia and date back to about 9000 years. The variation of vines is enormous. It’s isn’t astonishing that practically every family produces their own wine… which will then be consumed with a smaller family circle, including friends.

The traditional Georgian way of drinking differs from European styled one, as one tries to include those that are sitting around with one. As a basic principle, this is being done with toasts. While the group is seated around a table which is almost breaking under the weight of culinary masterpieces, the glasses are filled with, for example, wine. Everyone cheers; eye contact should be avoided. This is followed by dear Tamada’s (the toast master) speech/toast. Everyone says ‘Gaumarjos‘ and every glass is promptly emptied to the very last drop. Afterwards one has a couple of minutes to feast on the delicious food, that is being continuously served and seems to be never ending, until the glasses are filled again. This is a cycle that goes on and on throughout the entire evening

How is such a toast carried out?
There is an unwritten sequence that is normally respected by every Tamada. There are also some toasts that need to be mentioned. The usual celebration starts with a toast for peace and harmony between the nations of the world, followed by a toast to friendship. Furthermore, the drinking shall be continued with a warm speech about love. This is the normal way of how most Supras run down. A compulsory toast should be addressed to those that are no longer alive (Traditionally, every funeral end in a great feasting with much wine after the family and close friends had the occasion of meeting the corpse in a certain period of time after death at his/her home).
Additionally to these traditions, at other Supras, people drink from a jar made out of goat horns. Those are solely filled with wine or brandy. Another cultural specialty consists of the tradition called ‘Vakhtanguri’ (the name origins from King Vakhtang VI of Georgia). One crossed arms with a partner of one’s choice (or with 2 partners), then drinks the entire content of it at once.
At the end of each Supra you feel closer to all of the other drinking companions… in case you don’t fall asleep head to chest.

There are many opportunities where one can observe the friendly Georgian personality. The common Georgian guy is actually a debonair being… especially if there’s something to celebrate about. Directly linked to this is alcohol consumption. However, statistics show that alcoholism isn’t as much of a problem as it is in Russia. Generally, the average consumption must be lower, since one does practically never drink by oneself. Only in company. After spending some time here, this fact is oddly surprising: An escape from alcohol appears to be hard. Even if one decides not to drink that particular day, a friend or neighbour will end up leading one back to the righteous path.
As foreigner, one is often confronted with a unsurpassable language barrier as both parties don’t speak a common language. Nonetheless, with the right amount of sign language and pointing and trying, it is rather easy to live in pretty much any social class in Georgia.

We can conclude: Wine is a valuable thing in Georgia and so are all the related traditions. Those among you that have a predilection for alcohol, will find pleasure here, as drinking can occur during all times of the day. The sociophobic will suffer a little, as people are mostly drinking in congregations, be it with friends or family… or both. Getting drunk is part of the culture, contributing to both stronger friendships and social connections. It is to be added that women generally drink less, as they’re taking care of children. Having children at Supras shouldn’t be surprising.

I made my own experiences in the domain of alcoholism here in Georgia: Including everything from totally new neighbours that invite you to spontaneous food and wine and chacha, Supras at work with the most important people from Scout’s center, a great variety of wines (all special in their own specific way), cheap wine that one … enjoys during a trip to the mountains, the first beer on the beach after a long trip to the mountains (its name was 34), a last perilous beer before a trip to questionable heights,….

After 4 months now (3 months when I wrote the actual article in German), I’m experiencing doubts about my taste: Has it truly changed that drastically? Is it a natural consequence of a different lifestyle? Is it the different air (polluted, thanks to Rustavi’s metallurgical industry)? Was it chacha?
For some stranger reason, hop juice that used to please my senses, feels like an intruder to my taste. Erdinger or Baltika are repulsive, whereas Georgian beers seem to be of greater contentment. I wouldn’t have never guessed such a radical change in such a small amount of time (damn, I came even to a liking concerning local salty cheese).

The typical picture at the end

On ‘The excessively hospitable state of mind of Georgian people’

‘Do harm to no-one; but rather help all people, as far as lies in your power‘ said by Arthur Schopenhauer in ‘On the Basis of Morality‘ and could actually be considered as a leading principle of Georgian culture and hospitality.

The rather small country in the Caucasian (compared with the enormity of its neighbour, notably Russia) is populated by +/-4 million people, of which one third lives in the capital. The largest majority of Georgian’s population practices Orthodox Christianity faithfully and locals are proud of being one of the very first nations of having adopted Christianity as state religion. Famous mostly for their historic significance as guards of the Golden Fleece, Georgia’s region of Colchis (presumably from Kartvelian) appears in one of the most famous European stories written by Homer. Georgia is furthermore also known for its downfall after the Soviet era and its political crisis that accompanied the nation for most of the 90s. However, the small Caucasian country is truly outstanding for its geographic position, which enabled it to have a strong economy during the times of the silk road, largely due to its location. And despite the small surface of Georgia, great varieties in topographies can be found within its borders, mostly influenced by the Caucasian mountains and the Black Sea. Not only does this affect local culture and dialects, but offers an interesting insight for foreigners.

Linked are all of those different ethnicities by their welcoming hospitality that will surprise all outsider and often put them into a situation of discomfort. Without any bad ulterior motive, locals will invite strangers (and also their friends and family members) to their best wine and food without hesitation. For members of the Western civilization, these traditions are extremely opposite to their every-day life. Apprentices to this culture will surely propose some money or other goods instead, which will be refused by the host; perhaps he might even feel insulted.

Here are some examples that I had the pleasure to experience on first hand during a trip with a couple of friends through Georgia and my stay in the smaller city of Rustavi (a population of about 120,000 people):
•    In Rustavi: As I invited a local friend on a beer (which would have resulted in a cosy binge drinking), he suggested moving to his home and buy beer from a store for economic reasons. Once arrived in his garden, his father promptly welcomed me and offered me some of his home brewed wine instead. Surprised by an intense cloudburst, we fled into their hours where I was given their best wine produced by a monastery which is situated high up in the mountains. Not only was it an excellent beverage, but the father saved this precious gift for more than 5 years. One can only too well understand, what I’ve been through as I couldn’t figure out how a stranger can offer such a precious thing to another one, although I’m befriended to one of his sons. Even if I realized that friendship and peace are far more valuable than this wine (which the father told me repeatedly during his toasts),  a certain uneasiness engulfed me at that moment. Taking into account that it was my first real experience with local traditions, I was glad when I could leave their home after having kindly refused further drinking in a local pub. My friend then walked me home, explaining that nobody expects any money back.
•    On the road: Hitch-hiking in Georgia is one of the fastest and most marvelous ways of traveling around. Usually one does not wait longer than 10 minutes (sometimes it only takes a couple of seconds) until a friendly drivers accepts you in his car, where you experience the down side of Georgia: The roads and the terrible chaos on the streets are just a routine and are probably based on some kind of Darwinistic principle. If you’re not fit enough for it, you will eventually face some heart attack.
•    While driving: Drivers try to put their passenger at ease by offering them fruits, local food, bread, water or any kind of nutriments. They might even invite you to a restaurant and refuse anything in return. Even when their passengers reject eating (be it because of the limited capacity of their bellies or because their simply do not wish to eat), this will certainly not put an end to the driver’s friendliness. Those few drivers who do not offer any food might just offer you a place to stay for the night.
•    Being hosted by locals: It doesn’t matter if you’re complete strangers to them; not only will they offer a safe place to stay for the night, but you’ll be given typical food and wine and chacha (latter may sound attractive, but one cannot know if it’s actually safe for consumption. Traditionally people will serve it from plastic bottles. Generally there is no problem concerning methanol. The chance of turning blind is extremely little). Guests will not be granted any renunciation from further feasting.

Hospitality in Georgia is a common good and will be offered to practically anybody who enjoys the privilege of visiting the picturesque landscapes of Saqartvelo (name of Georgia in the local tongue).
The precious state of mind of Georgian people is far more valuable than material estates, without limit to foreigners and can therefore be described as a  trans-boundary gift. In it’s greatness it is unique, however, sometimes locals appear to be excessively hospital, which might startle outsiders to these traditions. Nevertheless, the generosity is unconditional; people don’t work for their personal agenda and don’t expect anything in return. In case that the former host needs a hand, the former guest will traditionally give a service back.
It is not without reason that the ancient Georgian proverb says ‘Every guest is God-sent‘. Even if there are icons or crosses hanging somewhere in every drivers car, and Christian doctrines and helpfulness can be considered related, there is no real connection between both. Georgians are naturally hospitable, a state of mind formed by traditions.